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Dressmakers of Auschwitz: amazing, true story of Women Who Sewed to Survive

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Thank you to the Jewish Writers’ Festival in Sydney who will be discus­sing this book on Zoom at 8 PM Thurs 14th October 2021.

sisters Berta and Katka Kohút, 
1941 and 2013
Times of Israel

Amid the horror of the Holocaust, a select group of hand-picked Jewish women and girls, were segregated from their peers in Auschwitz. They set up in a dedicated workshop, to des­ign, cut and sew beau­t­­if­ul fash­ions for elite wives of Nazi camp off­ic­ers. The fashion workshop, the Upper Tailoring Studio, was soon very popular. The dressmakers produced high-quality garments for SS social functions in Auschwitz, and for ladies from the Nazi upper crust. The Studio’s fame spread and even classy Ber­lin women were soon waiting months for an Ausch­witz outfit. When the seamstresses had more work than they could handle, the SS wives occasionally rewarded them with a food parcel.

In London, author Lucy Adlington was browsing through arch­ive doc­uments from the 1930s and 1940s, to learn about what it was like for women during the war. She came across a reference to a fashion salon in Aus­ch­witz, but originally with very little information. Init­ial­ly the historian only had a list of nicknames names of the seam­st­resses: Irene, Renee, Bracha, Hunya, Mimi etc and trying to find wom­en’s real names in records was tricky. Furthermore survivors may have changed their names later, on marriage.

In looking for information about the former dress­makers, Adlington discovered inspiring stories of res­istance and survival, pub­lished in Sept 2021 as The Dressmakers of Auschwitz: The True Story of the Women Who Sewed to Survive. Drawing on diverse sour­ces, incl­ud­ing interviews with the very last sur­viv­ing seamstress, her book fol­l­ow­ed the fates of these brave women whose bonds of family and friendship helped them endure pers­ecution.

Adlington wrote about the context of Nazi policies for exploitation. If Jews were vermin, she asked, how did Nazis accept the hand­ic­raft of the seam­stresses? The Nazis clearly put far more value on Jewish goods than they did on Jewish lives, and high-ranking Nazi officials and their fam­il­ies were thrilled to wear clothes creat­ed by the vermin. Thousands of people were already forced to work in work­shops set up in other pris­on camps, but this work­shop was not for making or mending military unif­orms. Instead it was created purely for an elite who sat­is­fied their love of fashion in the middle of Nazi Hell.

Rudolph and Hedwig Hoess and their children
when their last baby was born in Auschwitz in 1943
Times of Israel

It started when Hedwig Hoess, wife of terrifying camp commandant Rudolph Hoess, asked her husband for a prisoner to mind the children and to sew. Af­­t­er bring­ing a Slovak Jewish woman Marta Fuchs into her home, Hoess started re­ceiving requests from other envious SS wives. Marta Fuchs recruited more seamstresses, and sewing activities were moved to a workshop in an administration site. The Nazis had always understood the power of cl­ot­h­es, from classy uniforms to high fash­ion. So even Magda Goeb­bels, wife of Hit­l­er’s propaganda minister Joseph Goebbels, happily wore these Jew­ish creations. In fact the Jews were actively helped; they were given access to the mass­ive stockpile of plundered possessions taken from the Jews on arrival at the camp.

The seamstresses gathered materials 
from the clothes plundered from newly arrived prisoners
Express

Marta Fuchs became the head seamstress, wanting to save as many women as possible in her haven. So yes, they had weekly washes, they had meaningful work and their food rations were safely located. Most impor­t­ant­ly they didn’t have to fear selections for gas chambers.

Additionally some seamstresses were quietly helping und­er­ground resist­ance move­ments by using their “privileged” positions to communicate with the outside. They collected and distributed medicines, and stole what­ever they could. They had occasional access to newspapers and to rad­ios, so they knew when the Allies had invaded France. Plus they want­­ed to survive and provide witness to Nazi atrocities.

As soon as Berta Kohút could, she brought her sister Katka in. In 1.5 years of the workshop operating, c40 Slovak Jewish women professionally sewed gowns and cock­tail dresses for Nazi wives. When the Red Army was approaching Auschwitz to liberate survivors, the workshop prisoners prepared to evacuate; they organ­ised extra cloth­ing for the coming Death March to Ravensbrück in NE Germany, in freezing Jan.

Main death camps, from Knowitall.org
It was a very long march from Auschwitz to Ravensbruck

In 2017 Adlington re-imagined these women in a young adult novel called The Red Ribbon. Her fictional ac­count of the dressmakers told the story of four young women who stitched clothes at the dress-shop at the Aus­chwitz camp in order to survive. When this novel was published, people contacted the author to help identify the real women.

Adlington could then speak to families of the real Auschwitz dress­­makers and in 2019 she met a surviving seamstress in San Franci­s­co, 98 year old Berta Kohut. A great connection! Berta rem­em­bered names, events and details. Using the skills learned in her dad’s tailor shop, Kohút ex­celled as a seamst­r­ess. Some of the women did not arrive with the skills & experience, but the group accepted them in solidarity.

Later in the U.S Berta had learned how to use a computer. And after Berta’s death in 2021, her son Tom Areton corresp­ond­ed with Lucy Ad­ling­ton. Berta did not live to see the book pub­lished, but she knew this valuable testament to the seam­st­resses was coming, in 15 languages!

While Ad­ling­ton was able to speak to other dressmakers families for her book, she wasn’t able to find any trace of the outfits that were tail­ored in WW2. However she did find an order book in the Workshop that regist­er­ed the names of the highest Nazis in Berlin, showing which Berliners were ordering their clothes from Auschwitz.

Lucy Adlington's book





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